DESIGN OF COSMECEUTICAL
PRODUCTS

SUBMITTED BY

FIRST YEAR, M.PHARMACY

DEPARTMENT OF PHARMACEUTICS

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CONTENTS

 Sun protection
 Sunscreens-classification
 Dry skin
 Acne
 Pigmentation
 Prickly heat, wrinkles
 Body odour
 Dandruff
 Bleeding gums
 Mouth odour
 Sensitive teeth

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SUN SCREENS

 It is a formulation such as creams or lotions, oils,
gels, sticks etc that protect the skin against the
effects of UV rays by incorporating the specially
designed molecules.

 The protective efficacy of sunscreen against UVB is
expressed as the sun protection factor(SPF).

 The sunscreens are works on a two mechanism that
some sunscreen absorb the ultra violet rays while
some sunscreens scatter the ultraviolet rays.

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IDEAL SUNSCREEN
In order to ensure optimal patient compliance , an

ideal sunscreen would be

 A combination of physical and chemical agents

 Broad spectrum

 Cosmetically elegant

 Substantive

 Non irritant

 Hypoallergenic

 non-comedogenic

 economical

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DRY SKIN
 Xeroderma or xerodermia, derived from the greek

word for dry skin.
 Dry skin is a integumentary system, which in most

cases can be safely treated with emollients and
moisturizers.

 Dry skin most commonly occurs in the scalp, arms,
lower legs, hands, sides of the abdomen and thigh.

 Dry skin has a low level of sebum and can be prone
to sensitivity.

 Chapping and cracking are signs of extremely dry,
dehydrated skin.

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CAUSES OF DRY SKIN

 Weather

 Central heating and air conditioning

 Fireplaces

 Tight clothing and compression

 Harsh soaps and detergents

 Sun exposure

 aging

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TREATMENT OF DRY SKIN

 Cleansing

▪ Apply moisturizers and or emollients while the skin
is still moist, apply liberally once a day at a
minimum and reapply when required.

▪ When emollients and moisturizers are insufficient,
the use of ceramides may be considered.

▪ A barrier cream may be useful for hands and feet.

▪ When scaling is present, consider a keratolytic such
as a urea- based moisturizer, salicylic acid, or
glycolic acid for mildly, moderately and severely
dry skin.

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ACNE

 Acne starts in the skin’s sebaceous gland.

 These glands secrete an oily substance called
sebum. the sebum normally travels through a tiny
hair follicle from the gland to the skin’s surface.

 Sometimes the sebum becomes trapped, mixing
with dead skin cells and bacteria.

 This causes clogged pores called comedones which
are blackheads that reaches the skin surface.
whiteheads are comedones that stay beneath the
surface. small red bumps, pimples also develops

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TYPES
1.Comedonal acne
Closed(whiteheads)-sebum accumulation results in white

papule visible at the skin surface.
Open(blackheads)-plug protrudes from canal and turns

dark
2.Papulopustular acne
Follicular wall ruptures, releases sebum and bacteria into

dermis.
3.Nodulocystic acne
Soft nodules that are secondary comedones from repeated

ruptures reencapsulations and abscess formations
Painful and disfiguring
Psychological impact.

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TREATMENT

1.Retinoids

tretinoin

adapalene

tazarotene

 Acts as a keratolytic and anti- inflammatory

 Inactivated by UV light

 Side effects-dryness, erythema, burning, irritation.

2.Topical antibiotics

Clindamycin

erythromycin

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3.Other

 Benzoyl peroxide gel

reduces antibiotic resistance

Side effects-erythema, dryness

 Ortho-tricyclin

 Ortho-cyclen

 Desogen

anti androgenic

2-4 months improvements is seen.

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PIGMENTATION

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DISORDERS OF PIGMENTATION

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PIGMENTATION DISORDERS

1.Hyperpigmentation – It is the darkening of an area of
skin or nails caused by increased melanin. One of the
leading cause is exposure to sunlight

2.Hypopigmentation – It is the loss of skin colour which is
caused by melanin depletion

3.Vitiligo – It is an autoimmune disease in which there is
an appearance of smooth white patches on the skin occur
all over the body.

4.Albinism – it is a rare inherited disorder which is caused
by the absence of an enzyme that produces melanin.
Pigmentation is completely lost as a result in eyes , skin
and hair.

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TREATMENT OF PIGMENTATION
DISORDERS
1.HYDROQUINONE

 HQ affects not only the formation, melanization and
degradation of melanosomes but it also affects the
membranous structures of melanocytes and eventually
causes necrosis of whole melanocytes.

 HQ preparation are commonly used in the treatment of
melasma at concentrations varying from 2-5% applied
once daily

2. AZELAIC ACID

 Azelaic acid is a naturally occuring nonphenolic,
saturated,9-carbon dicarboxylic acid that competitively
inhibits tyrosinase. Used to treat melasma.

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3.GLYCOLIC ACID
 Glycolic acid is an α-hydroxy acid that is usually

combined with other agents at a concentration of 5 -10%
for its skin lightening property.

4.ARBUTIN
 It is a β- D-glucopyranose derivative of hydroquinone, is

a naturally occuring plant product which has used
succesfully in the treatment of hyperpigmentary disorder

 Arbutin acts by the inhibition of tyrosinase thereby
decreasing melanin formation.

5.NIACINAMIDE
 It is a biologically active amide form of niacin. it reduce

pigmentation by reversibly inhibit the transfer of
melanosomes to keratinocytes.

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PRICKLY HEAT

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WRINKLES

 A wrinkle, also known as a rhytide, is a fold,
ridge or crease in the skin.

 Skin wrinkles typically appear as a result of
aging processes such as glycation, habitual
sleeping positions, loss of body mass, or
temporarily as the result of prolonged
immersion in water.

 Age wrinkling in the skin is promoted by
habitual facial expressions, aging, sun damage,
smoking, poor hydration and various other
factors.

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TREATMENT OF WRINKLES

1.THE FILLERS

 The filler is a biological or syntactical mean to
inject in hypoderm or in derma tissue, so to
implement or enhance a limited area of body for
aesthetic purpose.

 Used substrates are bovine collagen, autologous
collagen, cadaveric collagen.

2.PEELINGS

 Peeling is medical treatment consisting in a micro-
abrasion of epidermis or the superficial and medium
derma, by means of chemical or physical agents.

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 The peels used in these treatments are pyruvic acid,
salicylic acid, retinoic acid, trichloroacetic acid at
10%-20%.

3.BOTULINUM TOXIN

 Botulinum toxin injection for treatment of facial
wrinkles is one of the most common entry
procedures for clinicians seeking to incorporate
aesthetic treatments into their practice.

 Botulinum toxin is a potent neurotoxin that inhibits
release of acetylcholine at the neuromuscular
junction.

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4. LASERS

 The cosmetic use of the laser represents a valid non-
invasive intervention for the aged skin.

 The used lasers are CO2 laser

 They are indicated for treatments of aesthetic lesions for
resurfacing, for non- ablative rejuvenating and for hair
removal

 Other treatments are dermabrasion, surgery, ultrasound
therapy.

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BODY ODOUR

 Our sweat does not have any smell.

 Natural bacteria on our skin feed our sweat and
release the smell we call body odour, also
known as bromhidrosis.

 The warm, damp conditions of underarms make
them as ideal environment for bacteria to thrive
and for the sweat from our apocrine glands
which are more prone to releasing odour to get
trapped.

 This can cause sweat patches on our clothes

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 Body odour starts to occur in puberty.

 Men tend to suffer more from body odour, as
they sweat more from their apocrine glands than
women.

 Certain foods like curry, garlic or spices, alcohol
and some types of medication can also make our
sweat smell unpleasant

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How to control body odour

 Make deodorant part of your daily routine,
which releases bursts of freshness throughout
the day, helping to prevent the body odour.

 Sweat can easily get trapped in armpits, feet,
toes and genital areas-sweat patches-so its
important to wash and dry these parts of your
body properly with an appropriate soap or
shower gel

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 Hair allows sweat to get trapped and cause body
odour, shaving underarms can help.

 Shield has a range of antiperspirant innovations
to help with body odour, including 48 hour
protection and our clinical strength
antiperspirant, clinical protection

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DANDRUFF

 Dandruff is a common chronic scalp condition marked
by flaking of the skin on your scalp. although dandruff
isn’t contagious and is rarely serious. It can be
embarrassing and sometimes difficult to treat.

 The good news is that dandruff usually can be
controlled. Mild cases of dandruff may need nothing
more than daily shampooing with a gentle cleanser.
More stubborn cases of dandruff often respond to
medicated shampoos.

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SYMPTOMS

 For most teens and adults, dandruff symptoms are
easy to spot

white

oily looking flakes of dead skin that dot your
hair and shoulder

itchy

scaly scalp

 The condition may worsen during the fall and
winter , when indoor heating can contribute to dry
skin and improve during the summer.

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 A type of dandruff called cradle cap can affect
babies. this disorder, which causes a scaly , crusty
scalp, is most common in newborn’s , but it can
occur anytime during infancy.

 Cradle cap isn’t dangerous and usually clears up on
its own by the time a baby is 3 years old.

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TREATMENT
 Dandruff can almost always be controlled, daily

cleansing with a gentle shampoo to reduce oiliness
and skin cell buildup can often help mild shampoo

 Zinc pyrithione shampoos. these contain the
antibacterial and antifungal agent zinc pyrithione,
which can reduce the fungus on your scalp that can
cause dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis

 Tar -based shampoos. coal tar, a byproduct of the
coal manufacturing process, helps conditions such
as dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis by
slowing how quickly skin cells on your scalp die
and flake off.

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 Shampoos containing salicylic acid. these “scalp
scrubs” help eliminate scale, but they may leave your
scalp dry, leading to more flaking, using a conditioner
after shampooing can help relieve dryness

 Selenium sulfide shampoos. These shampoos slow
your skin cells from dying and may also reduce
malassezia. Because they can discolor blond, gray or
chemically colored hair, be sure to use them only as
directed and rinse well after shampooing.

 Ketoconazole shampoos. Ketoconazole is a broad
spectrum antifungal agent that may work when other
shampoos fail. It’s available over-the –counter and
prescription.

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BLEEDING GUMS

INTRODUCTION

 Bleeding gums is one of the most common
conditions affecting the oral cavity.

 The chinese termed the gum associated diseases as
‘ya – kon’ which means diseases of the soft tissue
surrounding the teeth.

 Bleeding gums indicates a slowly progressing
disease of the gums, which may further involve the
bone supporting the teeth and ultimately result in
tooth loss.

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Bleeding gums can result from following causes

 Tobacco use

 Vitamin k or c deficiency

 Stress

 Any bleeding and clotting disorders, diabetes and
hereditary condition

 Infection in a tooth or the gum

 Hormonal changes during pregnancy, resulting in
pregnancy gingivitis

 Dentures that don’t fit.

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SYMPTOMS

 Gum become soft, spongy and swollen

 Bleeding-bleeding is usually noticed
while brushing the teeth

 Pain-bleeding of gums may occur with or
without associated pain

 Bad breath

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TREATMENT OF BLEEDING
GUMS

 applying pressure- gum bleeding can be controlled
by applying pressure with a gauze pad soaked in ice
water directly to the bleeding gums.

 Local application of some over the counter liquid
solutions that contain astringents can help control or
reduce bleeding of the gums.

 Proper dental hygiene- if long standing
inflammation is the cause of bleeding then removal
of the source of bacteria will result in improvement
of the condition.

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 Vitamin supplements- for vitamin deficiency, proper
diet or vitamin supplements are recommended. Sore
and bleeding gums can be aggravated by citrus
fruits and juices, rough or spicy food, alcohol and
tobacco. Vitamin C supplements are recommended,
if citrus fruits and juices cannot be taken

 If dentures make gums bleed, wear them only
during meals

 Brush teeth gently after every meal.

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MOUTH ODOUR

 Halitosis is a general term used to define an
unpleasant or offensive odour emanating from
the breath regardless of whether the odour
originates from oral or non oral sources

 It was described as a clinical entity by
HOWE(1874)

 Halitosis is originates from two latin words

Halitus – breath

Osis – disease

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Drugs that cause halitosis

 Tobacco

 Alcohol

 Chloral hydrate

 Nitrates

 Dimethyl sulfoxide

 Disulfiram

 Cytotoxic agents

 Phenothiazines

 amphetamines

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PATHOLOGICAL CONDITIOS WITH THEIR
CHARACTERISTIC ODOUR

DISEASES CHARACTERISTIC ODOUR

DIABETES MELLITUS ACETONE,SWEET FRUITY

RENAL FAILURE URINE OR AMMONIA

LIVER FAILURE FRESH CADAVER

TUBERCULOSIS /LUNG ABSCESS FOUL

INTERNAL HEMORRHAGE DECOMPOSED BLOOD

FEVER, DEHYDRATION ODOUR DUE TO XEROSTOMIA

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Objective tests

 Organoleptic measurement

 Gas chromatography

 Sulphide monitering

 Electronic nose

 BANA test

 Tongue costing index

 Dark field or phase contrast microscopy

 Saliva incubation test

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TOOTH SENSITIVITY
 Tooth sensitivity is a pain due to a wearing away of the

tooth’s surface or gum tissue.

 Most common cause of sensitive teeth in adults is
exposed tooth roots due to receding gums.

 Because these roots are not covered by enamel,
thousands of tiny channels leading to the tooth’s nerve
center(pulp) are exposed

 When heat, cold or pressure touches these channels, you
feel pain.

 Ignoring your sensitive teeth can lead to other oral
health problems

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CAUSES

 Brushing too hard or too much pressure which
removes gum tissue.

 Aging, sensitivity is highest between the ages of
25-30

 Using hard tooth brush instead of soft one.

 Enamel erosion by acidic foods.

 Cracked teeth.

 Tooth whitening

 Stimulation from hot beverages or foods.

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REFERENCE

 Harry’s cosmeticology. sixth edition by Ralph G
harry .Page no.306-338.

 Text book of cosmetics by Rajesh kumar nema.
first edition. Page no 82-93.

 Textbook of cosmetics by M. Vimala devi. first
edition. Page no 219-225.

 Review journal of acne vulgaris by christine
chim. Page no 7-22.

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