FORMULATION APPROACHES AND
REQUIREMENTS
TOPIC: Care needs for Hands, Feet, Nail, Scalp,Neck,
Under arms. Formulation requirements for ethnic needs
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CARE NEEDS FOR HANDS
❑ Wash with a moisturizing hand soap: It’s important to keep hands clean, but
using an antibacterial hand soap can dry out your skin. Instead, wash your
hands with a moisturizing soap that contains hydrating ingredients, such as
shea butter, olive oil, or aloe vera, to avoid stripping the natural oils from
your skin.
❑ Clean under your nails with a nail brush: Even if you wash your hands
regularly, there may be dirt and grime under your fingernails that doesn’t
rinse away. While you’re washing your hands, use a good quality nail brush
to gently scrub beneath your nails and remove any dirt that may be stuck
there.
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• Keep your nails trim and well shaped. You’ll have an easier time keeping your
nails clean if you groom them properly. Use nail clippers to keep them at a
length that you like, and file them with a crystal nail file or gentle board into
a neat shape, such as a square or oval.
• Exfoliate your hands weekly. Use a hand scrub once a week to buff away the
dry, rough skin and keep your hands soft and healthy. Wet your hands with
lukewarm water, and massage a small amount of the scrub over both of your
hands, working in circular motions. Rinse it off with warm water, and apply a
hand cream
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Treat your hands with a mask weekly. Even if you moisturize your hands
daily, they may not get all the moisture that they need. Use a hand mask once a
week to deliver a super dose of hydration that keeps the skin on your hands
soft and healthy. Apply it to clean, dry hands, and allow it to sit for the
specified time on the packaging. Wash it off with warm water, and follow up
with a hand cream to lock in the moisture.
Wear gloves when doing chores. Plenty of the tasks that you have to do
around the house can do damage to your hands. Whether you’re washing
dishes, doing yard work, or working with tools, always put on a pair of
protective gloves first. That will keep your hands from getting dry, cracked,
and callused
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Apply a retinol treatment to dark spots: If your hands have developed dark spots
or other discolorations, the best treatment is some type of retinol cream. Retinol
helps stimulate the production of new skin cells, so it works well to fade dark spots.
Apply a retinol-based cream to your hands before bed to keep your hands clear and
smooth
❑ Hand Moisturizer
Moisturizing hands is especially important in wintertime when harsh weather can
leave skin dry and even cracked.
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Hand and Body Cream: Due to repeated exposure of skin to water,soap
and detergents many times a day leads to removal of lipids and other
secretionsfrom the skin. Cold and dry winds are responsible for
chapping of the skin. Chapping occursdue to loss of moisture from the
skin,which is also associated with cracking. Water is sufficient to treat
the dryness of the skin but evaporation of water takes place which
makes the skin dry again and no emollient effect is produced.
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HAND SANITIZER
A hand sanitizer or hand antiseptic is a non-water-based hand hygiene agent.
Most are based on isopropyl alcohol or ethanol formulated together with a
thickening agent such as Carbomer into a gel, or a humectant such as glycerin into
a liquid, or foam for ease of use and to decrease the drying effect of the alcohol.
Hand sanitizers containing a minimum of 60 to 95% alcohol are efficient germ
killers.
Alcohol rub sanitizers kill bacteria, multi-drug resistant bacteria (MRSA and
VRE), tuberculosis, and some viruses (including HIV, herpes, RSV, rhinovirus,
vaccinia, influenza,[25] and hepatitis) and fungi.
❑ Hand sanitizers are most effective against bacteria and less effective against
some viruses. Alcoholbased hand sanitizers are almost entirely ineffective
against norovirus or Norwalk type viruses, the most common cause of
contagious gastroenteritis
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SOAP AND WATER
One must use soap and warm running water , and wash skin and nails
thoroughly.
First one should rinse hands with warm water, keeping hands below wrists and
forearms, to prevent contaminated water from moving from the hands to the wrists
and arms. The warm water helps to open pores, which helps with the removal of
microorganisms, without removing skin oils.One should use five milliliters of
liquid soap, to completely cover the hands, and rub wet, soapy hands together,
outside the running water, for at least 20 seconds. The most commonly missed
areas are the thumb, the wrist, the areas between the fingers, and under fingernails.
Artificial nails and chipped nail polish harbor microorganisms.
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DRYING WITH TOWELS OR HAND DRIERS
Effective drying of the hands is an essential part of the hand hygiene process,.
A growing volume of research suggests paper towels are much more hygienic
than the electric hand dryers.
CAUSE:
After washing and drying hands with the warm-air dryer, the total number of
bacteria was found to increase on average on the finger pads by 194% and on the
palms by 254%.
Drying with the jet-air dryer resulted in an increase on average of the total
number of bacteria on the finger pads by 42% and on the palms by 15%.
After washing and drying hands with a paper towel, the total number of bacteria
was reduced on average on the finger pads by up to 76% and on the palms by up
to 77%.
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FEET CARE
1. Washing
Feet skin is most susceptible to bacterial and fungal infections since it is cloaked
in socks and shoes for a major part of the day, or exposed to dust and grime. The
skin between the toes is a perfect place for bacterial and fungal infections to
flourish if it is not washed and cleansed properly. It is therefore very important to
soap and wash your feet once every day to ensure the locked in dirt and sweat is
cleansed off.
2. Keeping Them Dry
Athlete’s foot is a common fungal infection of the feet which causes itching,
burning, peeling of the skin, and in some cases may also cause painful blisters.
Dampness is a perfect environment for fungal infections like athlete’s foot to
thrive
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Drying the feet, especially the area between the toes is very essential after every
wash, especially if you are wearing socks and shoes immediately afterwards.
3. Moisturising
Don’t limit your moisturising routine to just your face and hands. Lack of
moisture can leave your feet skin dry, scaly and chapped. The chapped skin can
then become extremely dry and hard especially on the heels. This area can then
become a magnet for dirt and grime which will start sticking to it. Chapped heals
do not just have an unseemly appearance but can also be painful. Make sure you
apply a generous dose of moisturizing agent on your feet every day after washing
your feet. Cocoa butter or petroleum jelly can be good options.
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4. Removing Jagged Skin
Moisturising dead skin will not serve any purpose. It is important to remove the
dead layer first by exfoliation once every month. This can be done with pumice
stones but mildly. It also helps remove the dirt and grime stuck to the
hardened dead skin. Follow it with a hydrating moisturiser and leave it
overnight.
5.Occasional Pampering
Leave your feet soaked in warm water for 10 to 15 minutes twice a month. This
helps soften the skin. Then rub the feet mildly, dry them thoroughly and apply a
Vitamin E rich cold cream. If your feet are susceptible to infections and
inflammations, use an anti bacterial cream.
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6.Wearing Socks
Wearing socks is not only important to protect you from the cold but also to
protect your feet against environmental damage. Socks shield the feet against dust
and dirt which might stick to the cream applied on to the feet. They also protect
against UV radiation.
7. Wearing Comfortable Shoes
Always remember to wear shoes that you are comfortable in. Avoid wearing tight
shoes as this may lead to skin infections or sores. Also avoid wearing high heels
regularly as this may cause damage to the tissues and ligaments of your feet.
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1 Thick, Glycerin-Rich Foot Cream That Penetrates The
Toughest Skin
Dry foot- apply moisturising cream
For foot fungal- appy antifungal foot creams
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CARE FOR NECK
we shouldn’t neglect our necks, as they show signs of aging even more
quickly than our faces do.
Sunscreen is crucial: MUST put SPF on your neck. Many people remember to use
sunscreen on their faces but forget their necks,
Be vigilant about dryness. Did you know that your neck has fewer sebaceous
glands than the skin on your face. Because of this, Chwalek says that the neck is
more susceptible to things like dryness and irritation, and is more prone to scarring.
That’s just yet another reason to apply SPF to protect your neck. She recommends
using a daily SPF of 30 or more and using very gentle cleansers. To make it even
easier, she says you can use a facial SPF on this
area, too.
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❑ Limit your screen time.
This is the biggest cause of tech neck. Tech neck refers to skin laxity and lines
that occur from looking down at your computer or phone for long periods of
time.
Any repetitive movement or contraction of underlying muscles has the potential
to cause skin lines and wrinkles over time, though some of this is also determined
by genetics and age.
Do not over massage you neck. A neck massage should last from 10-15 minutes
maximum with a possible break of one or two minutes in between.
Over massaging can strain the neck skin.
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Apply face wash on the neck while taking a bath.
Avoid harsh soaps on neck skin. Shower gels which are pH balanced are
fine,though. A good way to noticeably reduce pores is to rub your neck and face
with ice cubes.
But be careful so as to not catch cold. Ice cubes rubbed on the neck for 15
minutes, preferably every day, can help you lessen any pores on the neck.
Remember to remove makeup from your neck while removing your face
makeup.
Neck’s skin is no different than the skin of the face. It also contains pores.
Makeup blocks the pores and obstructs the skin of the neck to breathe properly.
The result is dull and sagging skin.
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NECK CARE COSMETICS
• Moisturising cream
• Cleansing cream
• Face wash
• Fairness cream
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CARE FOR SCALP
Exfoliation: To help boost the skin cell turnover process, exfoliate your scalp
on a regular basis. If you suffer from dry skin or psoriasis, you may need to
exfoliate two or three times per week; otherwise, exfoliating once weekly is
generally adequate to remove dead skin cells from the surface of your scalp. A
small number of exfoliating shampoos that contain ingredients like white willow
extract and salicylic acid are available on the market. You can also purchase a
gentle facial scrub with apricot or walnut kernels or oil beads that promote
mechanical exfoliation and use it as a pretreatment before you shampoo.
Preserve moisture. Many common scalp problems arise from dry skin or are
exacerbated by dehydrated tissue. When you shower , avoid exposing
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your scalp to hot water whenever possible. Instead, use lukewarm water for
rinsing, which allows more of the natural sebum necessary for moisturizing
the tissue to remain on your scalp.
Once or twice per week, skip blow-drying and allow your hair to naturally air
dry to give the skin on your scalp a break from the drying heat of your hair dryer
Massage: Beneath the skin on your scalp is an intricate network of blood
vessels that carry oxygen and vital nutrients to the tissue. Keep the circulation
going in your scalp by massaging the skin when you lather in the bath or shower.
Then, once per week, spend 5 to 10 minutes massaging your scalp, using gentle
circular motions. For the ultimate indulgence, consider getting a professional
scalp massage.
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Limit chemical treatments: Straightening or hair coloring treatment can
improve the look of your hair and boost your confidence, but the chemicals
used in these treatments can dry out and irritate your scalp. Also, during any
chemical treatment, be on the lookout for signs of irritation like burning or
itching. Should they occur, notify your stylist immediately.
Shampoo regularly. For many people, washing your hair once per day is
ideal, though if you suffer from some scalp problems or damaged hair, you may
need to wash less frequently. Cleansing is one of the most important parts
of scalp care, but what you shampoo with is just as important as how often
you do it. Rather than shopping for a shampoo at random, look for brands
that have their basis in natural ingredients or those geared toward your
specific scalp problems.
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Protect your scalp from the sun:Skin cancer is the most diagnosed form
of cancer in the United States and often develops on the scalp, which is nearly
always exposed to the sun during your day-to-day activities. When you plan to
be in the sun for long periods of time, wear a hat to protect your scalp.
In addition consider applying a spray-on broad-spectrum sunscreen to your
part or using a shampoo that contains a sunscreen, which will help protect your
scalp from ultraviolet rays.
❑ Eat right: A well-balanced diet rich in fruits and vegetables will help supply the
skin of the scalp with the raw materials necessary to produce new, healthy
cells. Strive for two to four servings of fruits and three to five servings of
vegetables per day. In addition, include two to three servings of meat, poultry,
fish, eggs and nuts to ensure that your body has an adequate supply of protein,
which is necessary both for scalp care and a healthy head of hair.
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CARE PREPARATION FOR SCALP
SHAMPOOS
Earlier soap cake was used for washing the hair.Today, a large population ,
both men and women use shampoo for washing the hair and scalp. A good
shampoo should be able to perform the following functions;
It should remove soil,sebum and residue of hair setting lotions/ dressings
from hair and scalp.
It should produce foam of the degree that will satisfy the user.
One of the main functions of the shampoo is to remove dirt on the hair and
scalp.
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FORMULATIONS
❑ SURFACTANTS: Different type of surfactants are used. They are nonionic ,cationic ,anionic
and ampholytics.
❑ Anionic surfactants; alkyl benzene sulphonates alpha olefines sulphonates alkyl sulphate
sulphosuccinates, acyl lactylate
Non ionic surfactants Fattyacid alkanolamides Poly alkoxilated derivatives
Amine oxides
Amphoteric surfactants: N- alkyl amino acids, Betains Alkylimidazolines
Additives
Conditioning agents Egs; lanolin Mineral oil Polypeptides Egg derivatives
Viscosity modifiers : Naturalgum,Cellulose derivatives ,Carboxy vinyl polymer.
Opacifying and clarifying agents
opacifying agents:fatty alcohol,Clarifying agents:phosphates.
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Preservatives egs: formaldehyde ,
❑ Perfumes: herbal ,fruity and floral fragrance.
FORMULA
sodium lauryl sulphate 27%
cocoamido propyl amine oxide 5%
lauramine DEA 1%
Lactic acid 1%
Formaldehyde 0.1%
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CARE PREPARATIONS FOR NAIL
NAIL BLEACHERS AND STAIN REMOVERS
They are used to whiten the nails and to remove discolourations.
This preparations were popular before introduction of nail lacquers.
FORMULATION
Nail bleachers are generally oxidizing agent like hydrogen peroxide , sodium
perborates .
Zinc peroxide 7%
Talc 23%
Titanium dioxide 20%
Petroleum jelly 25%
Mineral oil 25%
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NAIL LACQURES
Nail lacqures or nail enamers are the one of the group of nail cosmetics.
• A nail lacqure should have the followingproperties ;
• It should be harmless to skin and nail
• It should convinient and easy to apply
• It should stable on storage .
• It should form satisfactory film on nail formulation .
FORMULATION
• Film formers Egs; cellulose acetate,vinyl polymer,Ethyl cellulose
• Resins: Egs; santolite MHP,santolite MS 80%
• Plasticizers: Egs; castor oil, Camphor, Butyl sterate.
• Solvents: Egs: acetone, Ethyl ether 84
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Pigments: egs: titanium dioxide,Yellow iron oxide,Iron blue,Iron black
Suspending agent:Benzyl dimethyl hydrogenated tallow,Ammonium
montimorillonite
FORMULA
methylated spirit 10%
Ethyl acetate 20%
Butyl acetate 15%
Toluene 55%
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CARE FOR UNDER ARM
• Hair Removal
Shaving: Shaving the right way will eliminate stubble, preventing ingrown hairs
and any possible inflammation. Remember that under arm hair can sometimes
grow in various directions, which means you may have to shave in more than just
one downward motion. Gently exfoliate the area prior to shaving (use the body
soap for gentle exfoliation) and use a conditioning shave cream for smooth
results. (Exfoliation also helps fight off underarm odor) For a close and
comfortable shave, be sure to use a fresh blade.
Waxing: waxing is highly effective and can leave you hairless for weeks instead
of days.
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DEODOURANT
• A deodorant is a substance applied to the body to prevent body odor caused by
the bacterial breakdown of perspiration in armpits, feet, and other areas of the
body. A subgroup of deodorants, antiperspirants, affect odor as well as prevent
sweating by affecting sweat glands.
• Antiperspirants are typically applied to the underarms, while deodorants may
also be used on feet and other areas in the form of body sprays. Deodorants are
often alcohol-based. Alcohol initially stimulates sweating, but may also
temporarily kill bacteria. Other active ingredients in deodorants include sodium
stearate, sodium chloride and stearyl alcohol.
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Deodorants can be formulated with other, more persistent antimicrobials such as triclosan that
slow bacterial growth or with metal chelant compounds such as EDTA. Deodorants may
contain perfume fragrances or natural essential oils intended to mask the odor of perspiration.
In the past, deodorants included chemicals such as zinc oxide, acids, ammonium chloride,
sodiumbicarbonate and formaldehyde, but some of these ingredients were messy, irritating to
the skin or even carcinogenic
FORMULA
Water
Alcohol
Dimethicone
Propylene glycol
PEG
Fragrance (fruil/ flower oil)
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REFERENCE
Cosmetics – formulation ,manufacturing and quality control by
P.P. SHARMA 5th edition .
Page no:149- 216,327-348, 497-521,459-481.
« www.wikipedia.com
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