HERBAL COSMETICS
M.PHARM FIRST YEAR
COLLEGE OF PHARMACY
COLLEGE
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CONTENTS
• Herbal ingredients used in hair care
• Herbal ingredients used in oral care
• Herbal ingredients used in skin care
• Review of guidelines for herbal cosmetics
by private bodies like cosmos with respect
to preservatives, emollients, foaming
agents, emulsifiers and rheology modifiers.
• Challenges in formulating herbal cosmetics
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HERBAL COSMETICS
DEFINITION:
• According to D & C Act 1940
• Any article intended to be rubbed, poured,
sprinkled or sprayed on or introduced to or
applied to any part of human body for cleansing,
beautifying, promoting, attractiveness or altering
the appearance and includes any article intended
for use as component of cosmetics.
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• Herbal Cosmetics, referred as Products, are
formulated, using various permissible cosmetic
ingredients to form the base in which one or
more herbal ingredients are used to provide
defined cosmetic benefits only, shall be called as
“Herbal Cosmetics”.
• In cosmetics, both natural and phyto-ingredients
are used. Natural products include oils, extracts,
secretions etc. Phyto-ingredients include pure
constituents obtained by various process.
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ADVANTAGES OF HERBAL
COSMETICS
• They do not provoke allergic reaction & do not
have negative side effects.
• They are easily incorporated with skin and hair.
• Extract form of the plants decreases the bulk
properties of the cosmetics and give appropriate
effects.
• Easily available & found in large variety &
quantity.
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HERBAL INGREDIENT USED IN
HAIR CARE
• Hair care product is to make the hair look
manageable and promote healthy growth.
Hair care products are :
❑Hair oil
❑Hair tonics
❑Hair cream
❑Shampoos
❑ Hair conditioner
❑Hair lotions
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❑Hair dyes
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SOME COMMONLY USED HERBALS
FOR HAIR CARE
S.NO BOTANICAL USES
NAME/COMMEN NAME
1 Acacia concinna (Shikakai) Pods extract is used as hair
cleanser & control of dandruff
2 Arnica montana (arnica) Flowers extract is used in hair oil
as a tonic material & stimulate
the hair follicles
3 Betula pendula (Birch) Extract of leaves is used as anti –
dandruff
4 Brassica (Mustard) Seed oil is used as hair oil for
hair nourishment
5 Calendula officinalis Flower extract is used in hair 7
(Marigold) creams for smoothening effect.
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S.NO BOTANICAL NAME/COMMEN USES
NAME
6 Carthamus tinctorius (Safflower) Alcoholic extract used in hair
tonics
7 Centella aciatica (Brahmi) Whole plant extract is used
for growth and
maintenance of hair.
8 Cocos nucifera (Coconut) Used as a basic raw
material for preparing hair
oil and tonic
11 Eclipta alba (Bhringaraj) Whole plant extract is used
for hair nourishment and
dyeing.
12 Ginkgo Biloba (Ginkgo) Used for hair growth
13 Glycyrrhiza glabra (liquorice) Root extract used treat the 8
hair loss
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HAIR OIL
• The hail oils used for dressings and nourishing the
hairs and grace appearance of hairs.
• This preparations is generally used to increase the
growth of hair and remains healthy.
Hair oil should have following properties :
❑They should give luster to the hair.
❑Retain them soft & flowering.
❑Invigorate their growth.
❑Prevent premature grayness.
❑Keep the brain cool.
❑Should not be sticky. 9
❑Should posses mild perfumes if required.
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Various hair oil used for
hair nourishment:
• Castor oil • Sunflower oil
• Cocount oil • Sandal wood oil
• Sesame oil • Rosemary oil
• Almond oil • Chameli oil (jasmine)
• Henna oil
Formula
BASE HERBAL EXTRACT MIX
S.NO INGREDIENTS % S.NO INGREDIENTS %
1 Centella asiatica 10
1 Til oil 70 2 Emblica officinalis 10
2 Alomond oil 10 3 Hibiscus rosa sinensis 10
10
3 Apricot oil 10 4 Amarantus census 10
4 Sunflower oil 10 5 Musa acuminata-root 10
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HAIR SETTING LOTION IN SPRAY
PACKING
• They are mainly used for keeping the position of the
hair on the scalp intact. Usually polymeric substances
are used. But natural herbal extracts can be used as
substitutes.
Formula :
BASE HERBAL EXTRACT MIX
S.NO INGREDIENT %
S S.NO INGREDIENTS %
1 Herbal hair oil 54 1 Musa acuminata flower 3
2 Triconella foenum 2
2 Paraffin 8
graecum
3 Beeswax 3
3 Aloe barbadensis 1 11
4 Ceralan 5
4 Gum karaya 1
5 Water 30
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HAIR LOTION
❑Hair lotion has a stimulating effect upon the
hair follicles.
❑They are generally perfumed with oil of
rosemary, it posses a good stimulating property.
Catharanthus Lotion Formula :
S.NO INGREDIENTS PARTS
1 Tincture of cantharides 1
Aqua samburi 11
3 Rosemary 5
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SHAMPOOS
❑Shampoo is preparation of surfactant in suitable
form liquid, solid or powder – which when used
under the condition specified will remove
surface grease, dirt, and skin debris from the
hair shaft and scalp without affecting adversely
the hair, scalp or health of the user.
❑Fenugreek extract help in conditioning,
thickening and foam stabilizing.
❑Saponins-natural foaming agent.
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INGREDIENTS USE IN SHAMPOOS
• Surfactant : Provide detergency & foam.
Eg, Anionic surfactant: Sulfonic acid salts, Alcohol
sulfates, Alkylbenzene sulfonates, Phosphoric acid
ester, Carboxylic acid salts.
• Viscosity modifiers: Electrolytes(NH4, NaCl),
Natural gum (Gum karaya, tragacanth, Alginates),
cellulose derivative(HEC, MC), Carbopol 934, PVP,
Phosphate ester.
• Opacifying agent: Alkanolamides of higher fatty
acids, Propylene glycol, Mg,Ca & Zn salt of stearic
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acid, Spermaceti.
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• Conditioning agent : Lanolin, Mineral oil, herbal
extract, Egg derivative.
• Clarifying agent: Solubilizing alcohol like Ethanol,
Isopropanol & Non ionic solubilizer like
Polyethoxylated alcohol and esters.
• Sequestering agent: EDTA.
• Preservatives : Methyl & Propyl paraban,
Formaldehyde.
• Foam Builders :Lauryl monoethanolamides,
sarcosinates.
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• Perfumes: Herbal, fruity fragrance.
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HERBAL SHAMPOO:
BASE
S.NO Ingredients % HERBAL EXTRACT MIX
1 Herbal extract mix 5 S.NO Ingredients %
2 Ammonium carbonate 1 1 Musa acuminata- 3
3 Detergent-SLES 40 root
4 Water 20 2 Aloe barbadensis 3
5 Propylene glycol 30 3 Emblica officinalis 2
6 Polyethylene glycol 4
7 Preservatives & QS
Perfume
REGULAR SHAMPOO:
Mixture of Shikakai, Reetha and Amla – hair 16
appears better appearance then shampoo.
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HEALTH SHAMPOO:
• Take equal quantities power such Reetha,
Shikakai, Multani mitti, Nagarmotha,
Mehandi & Amla.
• Soak in water for overnight – make paste.
HAIR FALL PREVENTIVE SHAMPOO:
• Paste of flower of Til (Sesame) & Gokharu in
cow milk – Past – Prevent the hair loss and
encourages the growth.
SHIKAKAI HAIR WASH:
• Shikakai power, Dried amla, Dried lime peel,
Green grams, Dried curry leaves, Fenugreek
seeds – cleansing and hair wash. 17
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ANTI-DANTRUFF HAIR WASH:
• Shikakai, Mehandi, Reetha, Nimba tree bark
(Margosa), Chandan.
• Make a power in water at night then boil this
mixture till it form a paste.
HAIR CONDITIONER
• The term hair conditioners used for attractive,
healthy looking hairs. They should be capable of
giving life, softness, body and silky touch, control
of flyway and ease of styling to the hair.
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Jojoba conditioner formula:
• Rose floral water – one cub
• Jojoba oil – 1 tablespoon
• Vitamin E oil – 10 drop
Aloe vera hair conditioner formula:
Ingredient %
Aloe vera gel 60
Lemon juice 10
Essential oil 0.5
• Essential oil – lavender and rosemary are used for
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relaxing and mind oil for stimulating effect.
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HAIR TONIC
• Hair tonic which promote hair growth, arrest hair
fall and Strengthen hair roots.
Ingredients:
• Amla fruits
• Henna (mehandi)
• Bhringraj leaves
• Jasmine flower
• Japa flower
• Tulsi leaves
• Vasaka
• Spirulina
Heat all ingredients with oil (coconut oil) on low 20
flame till all herbs are burnt.
• Strain the oil & store in airtight container
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HAIR COLORANTS
• These are preparations which are used for the coloring
of the hairs.
• They enhances the attractiveness of gray hair. They
are applied externally on the hair with help of brush.
Formula
S.NO INGREDIENTS %
1. Lawsonia inermis power 75
2 Indigofera tinctoria 20
3 Quercus infectoria powder 5
• Extract of these powder give brownish black color.
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RED HAIR COLOR ENHANCER
• ½ cup beet juice
• ½ cup carrot juice
FOR GRAY HAIR
• ½ cup dried sage
• ¼ cup dried rosemary
FOR BLONDE HAIR
• 6 chamomile tea bags
• ½ cup plain yogurt and oil of lavender 22
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HAIR COLORANTS
COLOR PLANT NAME PART USED
Red/Brown Henna Leaves
Walnet Leaves, nuts
Catechu Heartwood
Blonde/Yellow Cassia Leaves
Catechu Leaves
Saffron Flowers
Chamomile Flowers
Rhubarb Root
Black
Shoe flower Flowers
Blue Indigo Leaves
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HAIR CREAM
• Herbal hair oil processed into cream are also very
useful as dressing preparations in hair grooming.
• It serves the purpose of hair oil without its
greasiness.
• Basically these cream are O/W type emulsion.
Formula
S.NO INGREDIENTS %
1 Herbal hair oil 30
2 Triethanolamine 10
3 Glycerin 10
4 water 45
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5 Borax 5
6 perfume QS
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HERBAL INGREDIENT USED IN
ORAL CARE
• Oral hygiene products are used for keeping the
teeth, gums and the oral cavity clean.
• The health of individual is reflected through
sparkling teeth, dazzling white color and tight
teeth and gums.
ORAL CARE AND ORAL HYGIENE
PRODUCT :
❑Tooth Powders
❑Toothpastes
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❑Gargling solution
❑Mouth wash
❑Tartar remover
• Tooth powder & Pastes used for cleaning the
teeth by removing the dental plaque and tartar
with help of toothbrush for keeping oral cavity
fresh.
• Mouthwashes and Gargling solution, made up of
astringent, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory
herbs are selected, its used for care of oral cavity.
TYPICAL ORAL CARE INGREDIENTS
• Sweeteners : Glycerin, Glucose, Sodium 26
cyclamate, Sorbitol, Saccharin, Stevia powder.
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• Abrasives : Calcium carbonate, Calcium
Diphosphate, Calcium triphosphate, Sodium
floride, Sepia officinalis powder, Silica gel,
Siliceous earth, Magnesium aluminum silicate,
Celite , Kieselguhr, Charcoal power.
• Flavorings agent: Peppermint oil, Wintergreen
oil, Cinnamon oil, Clove oil, Anise oil, Dill oil,
Nutmeg oil, Fennel oil, Thymol , Anethol,
Menthol.
• Binding agent : CMC, Sodium alginate, Gum
karaya, Gum Acacia, Gum tragacanth, Bentonite.
• Preservatives: Methyl paraben and Propyl
paraben. 27
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LIST OF PLANT USED IN DENTAL
CARE AND ORAL HYGIENE
PREPARATIONS
HERBS BOTANICAL PARTS PROPERTY
NAME /COMMON USED
NAME
Acacia arabica(Babool) Stem bark Astringent
Achyranthes aspera(Prickly Entire plant Astringent
chaff flower)
Anacyclus pyrethrum Root Toothache
(Chamomile)
Azadirachta indica ( Neem) Stem berk Antibacterial
Syzygium aromatum Buds Toothache 28
Ficus benghalensis Root Gum tightening
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HERBS BOTANICAL NAME PARTS USED PROPERTY
Mentha piperita Oil Flavoring agent
Psidium guajava Leaves Astringent
Prunus amygdalus Root bark Tartar remover
Spilanthes acmella Leaves, fruits Toothache, gum infection
Spilanthes calva Flowers Flavoring agent
Terminalia chebula Stem bark Astringent
Mimusops elengi Fruits Toothache
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Pongamia glabra Bark Antiseptic
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TOOTH POWDER
BASE FLAVOUR –ESSENTIONAL OIL
MIX
S. INGREDIENTS %
NO S.NO INGREDIENTS PAR
T
1 Calcium Carbonate 50
1 Cinnamon oil 2
2 Celite 30
2 Clove oil 2
3 Sodium chloride 5
3 Peppermint 2
4 Hard soap powder 5
4 Neem, Karangia 4
5 Herbal powder mix 10
oils
6 Flavoring agent QS
HERBAL POWER MIX
S.NO INGREDIENTS PART
1 Mimusops elengi fruits 2.5
bark
2 Azadirachta indica-bark 2.5 30
3 Acacia arabica-bark 2.5
4 Pongamia glabra- bark 2.5
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TOOTHPASTE
• These are pastes meant for cleaning teeth from tartar
and plaque.
Formula:
BASE
S. INGREDIENTS % FLAVOURING AGENT
NO S. NO INGREDIENTS PART
1 Herbal tooth 70 1 Clove oil 2
powder 2 Cinnamon oil 2
2 Detergent 3 3 Peppermint oil 2
3 Flavouring agent 3
4 Water 20
5 Sweetener 4
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6 Glycerin Q.S
7 Sodium alginate Q.S
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TATAR REMOVER
• Tartar and its incrustation are dissolved by the herbal
powder mix. Thus, it act as a tartar remover and a
polishing product.
Formula
BASE
S. NO INGREDIENTS %
1 Siliceous earth 80 HERBAL EXTRACTS MIX
2 Celite powder 5 S.NO INGREDIENTS PART
3 Soap powder 2 1 Cocoa powder 10
4 Magnesium 5 2 Prunus amygdalus 2
carbonate tree root bark
5 Menthol 1
6 Clove oil 1
7 Cinnamon oil 1
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8 Herbal powder mix 5
9 Preservatives QS
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GARGLING SOLUTION
• Gargling solutions made up of herbal powder and
water are useful in taking care of the oral mouth,
making it free from any inflammation, pain or
bleeding of gum and tooth cavities.
• These are generally used whenever there is either
a throat or gum or teeth infection in the oral
cavity.
Formula
S. NO INGREDIENTS %
1 Terminalia chebula-power 5
2 Ficus benghalensis 5
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3 Punica granatum-powder 5
4 Azadirachta indica 5
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MOUTHWASH
• Gargles and mouthwashes are used after cleaning
the oral cavity, leaving it fresh and free from bad
odor, with tingling effect.
• Mouthwashes are mostly used to mask any foul
odor of oral cavity and also keep it fresh.
Formula
S.NO INGREDIENT %
1 Thymol 1
2 Peppermint oil 2
3 Wintergreen oil 2
4 Alcohol 3
5 Water 80
6 Glycerin 2
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7 Glucose 5
8 Colour Q.S
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HERBAL INGREDIENT USED IN
SKIN CARE
• The herbal approach of proper skin care is
principally based on three essential steps.
❖Cleanse
❖Nourish
❖Moisture
• Whatever any type of skin; these three steps are
external care of the skin to protect from the
constant effect of environment and skins natural
process of cell degradation decay.
• Therefore in order to help the skin look young,
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our beauty products & treatments must provide:
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❖Exfoliation to remove dead skin cells.
❖Epidermal stimulation for new cell growth.
❖Antioxidant properties for cellular rejuvenation and
repair.
❖Improve capillary blood flow.
❖Penetrating moisture and nutrients to replenish all
layers of skin.
Cleansing agent:
• Herbal powder to clean and exfoliate the skin on a
daily basis.
• Which remove the dust, dead cell & dirt that close
the pores on the skin.
• Some of the common cleansers include vegetable 36
oils like coconut, sesame and palm oil.
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• Face pack containing turmeric and lime juice
removes dead skin cell & refresh the face.
Moisturizing &Nourishing :
• It helps the skin to become soft & supple.
• It shows a glow and less prone to aging.
• Some of the herbal moisturizer include Vegetable
glycerin, Sorbitol, Rose water, Jojaba oil, Aloe
vera, Coconut oil, Sandal wood oil, Almond
oil.
• It helps to improve blood circulation, straighten
the connective tissue , there by reducing the
wrinkles to keep the skin in good condition. 37
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HERBAL CLEANING POWDERS
Skin type Herbs Fruits face
mask
I Dry skin Rubia cardifolia, Sariva, Triphala, Banana or
Glycyrriza Glabra, Sesame oil, Avocado pulp
Sunflower oil, Aloe , Coconut oil,
Jojoba oil.
II Sensitive Curcuma longa, Santalam alba, Banana or
skin Triphala, Azadirachta indica. Pineapple
pulp
III Oil skin Tulasi, Nimba, Terminalia arjuna, Strawberry or
Triphala, Curcuma longa, Mustaka in papaya pulp
mostard oil,
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HERBAL SKIN PREPARATION
Name Important herbal uses
constituents
Almond lanolin Almond oil, lanolin Remove dark circles
under eye cream around the eyes,
nourishes and clears
skin.
Vitaminsed Wheat germ oil, Provide skin a
nourishing cream cabbage meaning full look
without greasy
Aloe Vera rehydant Aloe Vera , lemon Removes impurities
cleansing cream extract, carrot extract from skin surface,
without disturbing its 39
moisture balance
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Name Important herbal uses
constituents
Vitaminised whitening Almond oil, lactic acid, Lightens the skin color,
cream vitamin A and D, act as powerful
corrotin seed extract astringent porcelains
the skin
Honey intensive Honey, sandal wood Effective moisturizer,
excellent softener,
gives nourishment to
the skin
Apricot luster cream Pure apricot extract, Gives luster to dry and
rose oil dull skin
Precious herbs Tulsi, wild turmeric, Moisturizer for skin
date, apricot. 40
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TYPES OF HERBAL CREAM
COLD CREAM
• It is an W/O emulsion in which the fat
predominates, but the cooling effect produced
when it is applied to the skin is due to slow
evaporation of the water contained.
Formula:
Almond oil 550 parts
White bees wax 145 parts
Borax 10 parts
Water 290 parts 41
Rose water 5 parts
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VANISHING CREAM
• Vanishing creams are also called foundation
creams, It is an O/W emulsion they disappears
when rubbed into skins.
Formula:
• Stearic acid 130 parts
• Borax crystals 28 parts
• Sodium carbonate 12 parts
• Water 740 parts
• Rose water 9 parts
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• Patchouli oil 1 part
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CLEANSING CREAMS
• A satisfactory cleansing cream is water in oil
emulsion that melts at temperature of body and
spreads readily over the skin.
• The product should not be sticky; after it is
removed , the skin should feel smooth, clean but
not greasy, and relaxed.
Formula of Chamomile cleansing creams
• Chamomile flower 50 parts
• Distilled water 500 parts
• Lemon juice 5 parts
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• Sodium benzoate 2 parts
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CREAM FOR ACNE AND PIMPLES
Formula :
Ingredients
Salmalia malabarica 10gm
(Silk cotton tree thorn powder)
Melia azadirachta (Neem bark powder ) 3.0gm
Symplocus racermoso 1.5gm
Curcuma Longa 1.5gm
Berberis aristata 1.2gm
Pteris Santalinus (Ratanjali powder) 0.5gm
Chandan 0.5gm
Andropogon muricatus 0.5gm 44
Glycyrrhiza glabra 0.5gm
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Rubia cordifolia ( Manjistha powder) 0.5gm
Randia dumetorum 0.25gm
Quercus infectoria 0.25gm
Acorus calamus 1.10gm
Aloe vera gel(Kumari) 2gm
Alum powder & Curd qs 20gm
ALMOND CREAM FOR DRY SKIN
Formula
White wax 30gm
Almond oil 60ml
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Rose water 60ml
Sodium benzoate 3g
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NOURISHING CREAM
Formula
• Coconut oil – 45ml
• Olive oil -30ml
• Almond oil -15 ml
• Coca butter -30gm
• Emulsifying wax – 30gm
• Bees wax -15gm
• Borax -10gm
• Distilled water -45ml
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ALL PURPOSE FACE PACK
Formula:
Sandalwood fine powder – 5gm
Nagarmotha fine powder – 5gm
Ashwagandaha fine powder – 5gm
Sariba fine powder – 5gm
Manjistha fine powder – 5gm
Ambahaldi fine powder – 5gm
Turmeric fine powder – 5gm
• Mix this mixture in milk and multani.
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EYE CREAM FOR DARK CIRCLES
Formula:
Lanolin – 15ml
Almond oil – 22.5ml
Soybean Flour – 5gm
Cold water – 10ml
NIGHT CREAM
Formula:
• Olive oil 1 tablespoon
• Shea butter 1 tablespoon
• Beeswax 1 tablespoon
• Rosewater 1 tablespoon
• Lecithin ¼ teaspoon 48
• Vitamin E oil 2 capsules
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FAIRNESS CREAM
• Herbs used : Aloe vera, Walnut, Rose centifolia,
Citrus reticulata, Berberis aristata.
Formula:
Aqueous extract of Berberis aristata – 20mg
Glycyrrhiza glabra – 30mg
Saffron -QS
Coconut water -QS
Oil of sandalwood -0.005
Almond -0.005g
Wheat germ -0.005g
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HERBAL LOTION
FACE LOTION
• This also called bleaching lotions actually mask,
rather then lighten the color of skin.
• These lotions usually contain Alum, Zinc oxide or
Titanium dioxide with various proportion of
alcohol, Glycerol and water.
• As delicate flesh tints may also added , such
products often serves as liquid powder.
Formula:
• Alum 10part
• Zinc sulphate 1 part
• Glycerin 1 part
50
• Tincture of benzoin 1part
• Essence of Rose 30drop
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SUN BURN LOTION
• The purpose of sunburn lotion is to assist the skin
in tanning without painful effect.
• The purpose of anti-burning preparation is to
minimize the harmful effects of sunburn.
• The material used for above purpose are known as
sun tanning agent & sunburn preventive agents
respectively = sunscreens.
• Tanning agents are those sunscreens which absorb
a minimum of 85% UVR(wavelengths of 2900-
3200Å) but transmit UVR wavelength longer then
3200Å – produce light transient tan.
• Sunburn preventive agent are those sunscreens
which absorb more than 95% of more UVR
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(wavelengths of 2900-3200Å).
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• Another type of sunburn preventive agent which
scatter the sunlight.
• These include Titanium dioxide, kaolin, Zinc
oxide, Calcium carbonate and magnesium
oxide.
Formula:-
• Lemon juice 5ml
• Xanthan powder 2.5gml
• Castor oil 5ml
• Avocado oil 15ml
• Essential oil 3ml
• Titanium Dioxide 0.2gm
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• Hot distilled water 60ml
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ANTI-WRINKLE LOTION
Formula:
Vitis vinifera (Grapes) 10ml
Citrus lemon 5ml
Solanum lycopersicum (tomato) 20ml
Aloe-vera fresh gel 50ml
MOISTURISING LOTION
Formula:
Aloe-vera juice 1000ml
Wheat germ oil 100ml
Bees wax 50gm 53
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• It has a powerful antioxidant that tones and
softens the skin and prevent skin damage caused
by UV & pollution.
• It is suitable for normal and oily skin.
MOISTURIZING LOTION FOR DRY
AND SCALY SKIN
• Formula:
• Rubia cordifolia decoction 50ml
• Aloe-vera juice 50ml
ANTIAGING AGENT
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Golden Root( Rhodiola rosea), Carrot, Gingko.
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FACE POWDER
• Its prime function the ability to complement skin
color by imparting velvet like finish.
• It enhance the appearance of the skin by masking
the shin due to the secretion of the sebaceous and
sweat gland.
Formula:
• Talc 75 parts
• Zinc oxide 10 parts
• Rice starch 10 parts
• Zinc stearate 5 parts
• Perfume & color q.s 55
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RAW MATERIAL USED IN FACE POWDER &
THEIR CHARACTERISTICS
Raw material Outstanding characteristics
Talk Slip
Kaolin Absorbency, adhesion
Precipitated calcium carbonate Absorbency, bloom
Magnesium carbonate Absorbency
Zinc & magnesium stearates Adhesion , water proofness
Rice starch Absorbency, bloom
Silica and silicates Absorbency
Titanium dioxide Opacity
Zinc oxide Opacity
Forested-look materials (guanine Sparkle, Pearly effect 56
bismuthoxychloride, aluminum,)
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REVIEW OF GUIDELINES FOR
HERBAL COSMETICS BY
PRIVATE BODIES LIKE COSMOS
WITH RESPECT TO
PRESERVATIVES, EMOLLIENTS,
FOAMING AGENTS,
EMULSIFIERS AND RHEOLOGY
MODIFIERS.
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COSMOS
• COSMOS stands for “cosmetic organic and natural
standard”, which sets certification requirements
for organic and natural cosmetics products in
the europe.
• It was developed by five charters members:
❖BDIH (germany).
❖Cosmebio (france).
❖Ecocert (france).
❖Icea (italy).
❖Soil association (great britain).
• The standard is recognized globally by the cosmetic
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industry.
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• By adhering to specific guidelines, cosmetics
marketers can use COSMOS signatures, which are
registered trademarks, on packaging to confirm the
products meet minimum industry requirements to be
considered organic or natural.
What does it contain?
• The cosmos-standard applies to cosmetic products
that are marketed as organic or natural. Its guiding
principles are to:
❖Promote the use of products from organic
agriculture, and respect biodiversity.
❖Use natural resources, and respect the environment.
❖Use processing and manufacturing that are clean and
respect the human health and environment.
❖Integrate and develop the concept of “green 59
chemistry”.
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PRESERVATIVES
• Cosmetic preservatives allowed by Ecocert and
COSMOSE are considered more skin friendly than
some traditional preservatives.
• Preservatives are the chemical substances used to
improve or amplify shelf life of drugs by decreasing
or lowering the oxidation of active and excipients
and by reducing microbial production
• According to the latest Ecocert and
COSMOS standards the following preservatives are
allowed in cosmetic products certified as natural and
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organic:
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• Phenoxyethanol – This ingredient is not approved
by COSMOS but it is a common preservative for
natural formulation.
• It has a light rose odor.
• It is effective against some bacteria and fungi. Also
good against pseudomonas.
• It has a wide pH range and is effective from pH 3 –
10.
• Phenethyl Alcohol – This ingredient is approved
by COSMOS and works similarly to
phenoxyethanol. It has a stronger odor.
• Organic acids and their salts – There are a wide
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range of organic acids that are effective as
preservatives.
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These include:
• Benzoic acid
• Sodium benzoate
• Sorbic acid
• Potassium sorbate
• Dehydroacetic acid
• Salicylic acid
• These ingredients are mostly approved by the
COSMOS standard and are effective against fungi
and to some extent bacteria.
• They only work at lower pH however so if you
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use them you need to formulate below pH 5.0
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• Benzyl Alcohol – This material is effective
against a broad spectrum of microbes.
• While it can be found in nature most of the
benzyl alcohol used commercially is synthetically
produced.
• One drawback is that it is a known allergen.
• There are also some compatibility issues with
benzyl alcohol and nonionic surfactants.
Natural preservative boosters:
• The following ingredients can help disrupt growth
by interfering with the microbial cell membranes.
• Caprylyl Alcohol 63
• Caprylic Acid
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• Gluconolactone
• Glyceryl Caprylate
• Ethylhexyglycerin
Other fragrance components have some
preservative boosting activity
• Levulinic Acid
• p-Anisic Acid
There are also some enzymatic systems that have
been successfully employed in natural cosmetic
formulations.
• Glucose Oxidase
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• Lactoperoxidase
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Some natural ingredients that have some
antimicrobial functionality.
• They are not broad spectrum effective so should
not be used as the sole preservative system.
❖Tea tree oil
❖Rosemary
❖Cinnamon
❖Grapes fruit seed extract
❖Honeysuckle extract
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EMOLLIENTS
• Emollient is a refatting agent, i.e. An ingredient of
a cosmetic formulation that provides the skin with
the fat it needs. It reduces evaporation and thus
increases the moisture content of the skin.
According to COSMOS standard for Natural &
Organic Cosmetics :
• Candelilla Cera
• Palmitic & Stearic Acid
• Isopropyl Myristate
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• Isopropyl Palmitate
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• Jojoba Esters / Sunflower Seed Wax / Acacia
Decurrens Flower Wax / Polyglycerin
• Propanediol
• Pentylene Glycol
• Apricot Kernel Extract
• Glycerin (and) Water (and) Prunus Amygdalus
(Sweet Almond) Oil (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin
(and) Citric Acid
• Beeswax (and) Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
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EMULSIFIERS
• Emulsifiers are used as adjuvants for combining
non-miscible fluids into an emulsion.
• The molecular structure of the emulsifiers reduces
the surface tension between the hydrophilic and
lipophilic constituents, thus promoting the
formation of finely dispersed mixtures.
• The emulsion stabilizers improve and help to
maintain the stability and shelf-life of dispersions.
According to COSMOS standard for Natural &
Organic Cosmetics:
• Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 68
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• Glyceryl Oleate Citrate (and) Caprylic/Capric
Triglyceride
• Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Stearate (and)
Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
• Glyceryl Oleate
• Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
• Coco-Betaine
• Cocamidopropyl Betaine
• Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
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• Sorbitan Oleate (and) Hydrogenated Castor
Oil (and) Beeswax (and) Stearic Acid
• Sorbitan Isostearate (and) Hydrogenated
Castor Oil (and) Beeswax (and) Stearic Acid
• Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
• Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (and)
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides
• Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
• Apricot Kernel Oil
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FOAMING AGENTS
• Surfactants are surface active agents widely used
in cosmetics products specially in Shampoos,
Dentifrices, etc. These compounds are
characterized by foam production and reduction of
surface or interfacial tension.
According to COSMOS standard for Natural &
Organic Cosmetics:
• Coco-Betaine
• Cocamidopropyl Betaine
• Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
• Caprylyl Capryl Glucoside Coco-Glucoside
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
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• Decyl glucoside
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• Lauryl Glucoside
• Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
• Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate (and)
Lauryl Glucoside
• Coco-Glucoside (and) Disodium Lauryl
Sulfosuccinate (and) Glycerin
• Sodium Cocoamphoacetate (and) Glycerin (and)
Lauryl Glucoside (and) Sodium Cocoyl
Glutamate (and) Sodium Lauryl Glucose
Carboxylate
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
• Sodium Coco Sulfate 72
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RHEOLOGY MDIFIERS
• The term Rheology derived from two Greek words
namely rheo (to flow) and logos (science).
• Rheology is the science that deals with the
deformation of matter under the influence of
stresses like tensile stress, shearing stress, etc.,
• It deals with the fluids flow.
• Rheological additives generally focused to
Thickeners.
• Their primary roles in flow behavior may include
detergency, emulsification, foam stability or
conditioning. 73
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According to COSMOS standard for Natural &
Organic Cosmetics:
• Xanthan Gum
• Sclerotium Gum
• Sclerotium Gum (and) Xanthan Gum
• Cetearyl Alcohol
• Hydrogenated Rapeseed Alcohol
• Apricot Kernel Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
• Cellulose Gum
• Microcrystalline Cellulose
• Microcrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum
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• Avocado Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
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CHALLENGES IN FORMULATING
HERBAL COSMETICS
• Natural cosmetic and beauty products are vogue
now a days and cosmetic marketers around the
world are looking to launch their own version that
appeals to green-seeking consumers.
• However, making natural cosmetics is fraught
with difficulties stemming from the fact that
beauty products do not exist in nature.
• The biggest challenges in making natural
cosmetics include:
❖Defining what is natural 75
❖Making products that are suitably functional
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Defining Natural
• Before review natural cosmetics, it is helpful to
first discuss what is meant by the term natural.
• For this discussion, use a three-level classification
system of natural cosmetics:
• True natural – Ingredients are isolated from a
plant and chemically purified, but otherwise
unchanged.
• Acceptable natural – Ingredients conform to
some acceptable natural standard that allows some
chemical modification.
• Green washing natural – Ingredients are
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naturally derived but require significant chemical
synthesis to produce.
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• The majority of natural products on the market
would be considered green washed.
Making Functional Products
• The biggest challenge to making natural
cosmetics is that consumers have an expectation
of how well products are supposed to work.
• While consumers might say they want green or
natural products, they really want products that
work.
• When formulating natural cosmetics, it becomes
difficult because natural or naturally derived
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ingredients do not work as well as some of the
synthetic ingredients.
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• This is especially true for surfactants, colorants and
preservatives.
Surfactants
• Surfactants are the most versatile and important
ingredients in cosmetic formulations.
• Unfortunately, there are not many surfactants that
naturally occur, so trying to make natural formulas
with surfactants is a real challenge.
• True natural – There are not many natural
surfactants that are adequate for use as cleansers.
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• The closest are saponins. These are glycoside
compounds that have the ability to form foam
when put in a water solution.
• They are found in plants like yucca (Yucca
schidigera), soapwort (Saponaria officinalis),
soapbark (Quillaja saponaria) and soapnut
(Sapindus spp).
• The majority of commercial saponins are derived
from soapbark or soapnut via water and alcohol
extraction.
• Unfortunately, formulators reported using
saponins for cleansing products have been
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disappointed in their performance.
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• Acceptable natural – according to USDA natural
organic standards, there are no natural surfactants
you can use.
• Some companies like nourish organic use a
chemical trick where they create a surfactant in
situ by including natural ingredients that
chemically react to make a soap.
• In one formula, the coconut oil will saponify with
the potassium hydroxide.
• If you are following the cosmos standard, there are
many surfactants that are acceptable.
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• The ones typically used for cleansing products
are lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside,
caprylyl/decyl glucoside, coco glucoside and
cocamidopropyl betaine.
• COSMOS standard even allows for the use of
sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) since it can be
derived from natural sources.
Green washing natural –
• The use of cleansing surfactants like SLS is
probably not a good idea.
• Sulfates have a bad reputation, and even though
they are considered natural by the COSMOS 81
standard.
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• However, some companies simply replace sulfates
with other synthetic anionic surfactants.
• These include ingredients like taurates, sarcosinates,
and glutamates.
Colorants
• In United States, there is no ingredient more highly
regulated in cosmetics than colorants.
• It is illegal to use any ingredient (no matter the
source) to color cosmetics that is not approved by
FDA for such use.
• This means if you producing natural cosmetics the 82
colors you can use will be strictly limited.
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• The majority of approved colorants are synthetic
ingredients.
• Even mineral ingredients like iron oxides, zinc
oxide and titanium dioxide are all synthetic.
• The only approved versions must be synthetically
produced in the lab.
• The naturally occurring minerals are dangerous.
• The synthetic versions have much less
contamination.
• There are some colorants don’t require FDA
certification and come directly from nature such as
annatto, chlorophyllin, carmine, henna and
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caramel.
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• Unfortunately, there is a limited range of colors
ingredients can provide.
• The strategy most of natural cosmetic companies
follow to either use the direct-from-nature
colorants or use standard colorants.
Preserving Products
• We use natural ingredients becomes more
challenging because microbes are found in nature.
• Effective preservatives such as Parabens,
formaldehyde donors do not fit with a natural
theme, so we need alternatives such as
Phenoxyethanol, Phenethyl alcohol, organic acids
and their salts, benzyl alcohol, and other natural
materials. 84
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• Phenoxyethanol and Phenethyl alcohol have a
distinct odor that is difficult to cover.
• Organic acids only work as preservatives at lower
pH levels, which is not ideal for certain types of
beauty care products.
• Benzyl alcohol is a known allergen.
• Other natural materials like tea tree oil, rosemary
or cinnamon are not broad spectrum enough to
work as a stand alone preservative.
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REFERENCES
• Kuntal Das., Herbal plants and their Application in
Cosmeceuticals, page No:46-83.
• Vimaladevi.m., Text book of Herbal cosmetics,
Page no:74-103.
• Rajesh Kumar Nema Kamal Singh Rathore Bal
krishna Dubey., Text book of Cosmetics, Page
no:257-285.
• http://chemistscorner.com/3-challenges-to-
formulating-natural-products/
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• https://www.naturalproductsinsider.com/beauty/ch
allenges-formulating-natural-cosmetic-line
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmos_(standard)
• https://cosmos-standard.org/the-cosmos-standard/
• http://www.cosmos-standard-rm.org/verifmp.php
• https://www.bergschmidt.de/en/Cosmetic/c21_emo
llient.php#
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